A trip to the second capital of Safavid rule

Departing from Tehran early in the morning, we embark on a journey to Qazvin, a city with roots deeply entrenched in Iran’s storied past. The drive provides an opportunity to acquaint ourselves with the history of Qazvin, tracing back to the Sassanid era when it was established by Shapur and named Shad-Shapour. This city, once dubbed Bab al-Janah or the Gate of Heaven following the spread of Islam in Iran, offers a rich tapestry of historical narratives, especially from its time as the Safavid capital.

Upon our arrival in Qazvin, about two hours later, our exploration begins at the heart of the city—the bazaar. Qazvin’s market, pulsating with life, is where history and commerce intersect. The crown jewel of the bazaar, the Saad al-Sultaneh Caravanserai, alongside other historical marvels like the Shah Mosque and various caravanserais and Timchehs, presents a vivid glimpse into the city’s bustling past.

As we meander through the bazaar, the old carpentry row unfolds into the vibrant carpet shops, their Iranian rugs aglow under the skylight’s caress. This walk offers not just a feast for the eyes but also the palate, with the opportunity to savor Qazvini tea and baklava at a quaint teahouse.

The journey through Qazvin’s history continues with a visit to the Qajar bath, now serving as an anthropology museum, and the Kolah Ferangi mansion, a relic of Safavid royal grandeur. Lunch at Ghamee Nisar Qazvin offers a delightful culinary interlude, preparing us for the afternoon’s adventures.

Our afternoon is spent strolling along Sepeh Qazvin Street, celebrated as Iran’s first modern street. Here, the Aali Qapu Pass stands as a testament to Qazvin’s architectural and historical significance, with the majestic Aali Qapu gate marking the entrance to what once were royal gardens.

The day’s exploration extends to the city’s ancient water reservoirs, like the Haj Kazem and Jame Mosque reservoirs, which underscore the ingenuity of past generations in harnessing natural resources.

As the evening sets in, our visit culminates at the Qazvin Jame Mosque, a site of immense historical and architectural value. Built upon a former Sassanid fire temple, the mosque’s foundations tell the tale of a city that has been a crucible of cultural and religious transformations.

Returning to Tehran, we carry with us not just memories but a deeper appreciation for the rich tapestry of Iranian history and culture that Qazvin embodies. This one-day journey from Tehran to Qazvin offers a brief yet profound glimpse into the enduring legacy of one of Iran’s most historic cities.